On the 'Flying Scotsman' to Kampala.

[M. Hardy-Randall]

It was one of those dark and foggy days in November 1960 as I made my way to London airport, having just completed update courses on aircraft navigation systems. My destination was the check-in for Tuesdays' BOAC flight 168 to Nairobi which left at 18.00 hrs. As I sat in the Comet 4 high above northern Kenya I wondered what lay in front of me on my first visit to East Africa. On arrival at Embakasi airport at 12.30 the following day I found out, I was being sent on temporary transfer to the railways! Known then as the East African Railways and Harbours authority.
I was filled with mixed feelings as my job was working for airlines, but I had a deep passion for anything powered by steam that ran on rails. Information arrived from the EAR&H headquarters [known locally as the ‘Kremlin’] that I was needed in Kampala and that I would be booked on the next available flight to Entebbe the following Friday evening. After some haggling I managed to persuade the company to allow me to go by rail as this would allow me take all my baggage with me.
This wish was granted and a sole use first class cabin was booked on the train for Thursday morning. Having been told that the journey would be about 490 miles, I calculated that it would take about nine hours basing my calculations on timings for the ‘Flying Scotsman’ from London to Edinburgh. As I discussed this with my colleague who had come to see me off, he pointed out a very minor flaw in my argument. Walking past the largest steam engine [ A class 59, 4-8-2 + 2-8-4 Beyer Peacock] I had seen for a long time I was shown the track - it was narrow gauge, with a wry grin he said, ‘you will arrive in Kampala on Friday morning’.
At 09:15 the maroon coloured locomotive burst into life and started the long journey to the Ugandan capital. At first the train weaved its way through the suburbs of Nairobi before breaking out into the countryside beyond. Train 1, the mail, consisting of first and second class coaches with a restaurant coach plus baggage cars, would take just under 24 hours to complete the journey. After just over one hour during which we had passed through Kibera and Dagoreti we arrived in Kikuyu just 19 miles from the starting point. This was an exercise in fast food sales, as people sold their wares to the passengers during the short stop. Now the power of the locomotive was put to the test as the long train was hauled up the rising gradient towards Kijabi, near Mount Longonot, with its ruling gradient of 1.5%.
Just before noon the train called at Kijabi, after which the descent down the escarpment to Naivasha begins. It is now that the chimes ring out calling all and sundry to the restaurant coach, for a three course meal of soup, fish and main dish. During the meal the view is of the Rift valley and just before the town of Naivasha the lake of the same name is passed, a site that will amaze visitors and old hands alike as the horizon turns pink as a cloud of Flamingoes lifts up into the sky. From the latest stop the train hurries on at a much higher speed than previously allowed as it heads for the town of Gilgil which at this time was a large military garrison. The train has been travelling for four and a quarter hours and is 87 miles from Nairobi, not quite the ‘Flying Scotsman’ but worth every minute of the journey.
Leaving the town of Gilgil at 6660 feet above sea level the train hurries towards the main junction of Nakuru which lays 25 miles away to the north west at an altitude of 6100 feet above sea level. As the clock shows 14.40 the train rolls to a stop in the large modern looking station which for the locomotive is the terminus as it is not allowed to proceed further due the route being laid with lighter rails. The replacement locomotive was I believe a class 58 also a Beyer Garratt but with a 4-8-4 + 4-8-4 wheel arrangement.
Shortly after leaving Nakuru the route to Kisumu swings away to the left, as we proceed on up the steep gradient to the north and towards the next major town of Eldoret. The view now takes on a different aspect as it changes from the open bush towards one of farmland. Just 45 minutes later the train arrives in Rongai where the main line is joined by the branch line from Solai. Ten minutes later we are on our way again but the route is presented with a problem in the form of an extinct volcano Mount Loldiani which rises to over 9800 feet. The main-line swings away to right and heads for Eldama Ravine and then to Maji Mazuri which I believe means sweet water.
The train twists and turns its way around the mountain climbing all the while, with the exhaust of the locomotive heard loud and clear for some distance around. The route of the train passes over the main road to Nairobi before swinging through almost 180 degrees to assume its original course. By now the shadows have lengthened and the smoke from the locomotive is starkly etched against the evening sky. Just before 7 pm we cross the Equator heading for the next stop on the line at Timboroa and the summit at 9163 feet above sea level, the highest point on the whole of the EAR&H network. At 19.05 the train pulls into the station having travelled 83 miles since the stop in Nakuru and climbed 3063 feet taking four hours to complete the task.
Once again the melodious chimes ring out from the restaurant car calling everybody to another three course meal. I remember that being unaccustomed to the heat I did not eat much but enjoyed the conversation and atmosphere of the coach. Now it was dark outside but time seemed to fly by as it was almost a moment before we were pulling to a stop in Eldoret at 21.35 having lost over 2000 feet in altitude.
After 25 minutes and a change of locomotive we are on our way again over a fairly straight forward route through Lesuru, Turbo, Kipkarren River and on to our next stop at Broderick Falls at midnight. However, from there the route becomes quite tortuous as it proceeds down through Bungoma, Myanga and Malaba near the Kenya/Uganda border. Between Eldoret and the border a total of almost 3000 feet is lost in altitude. Just eight miles later we enter the main town in Eastern Uganda, Tororo where once again there is a locomotive change, but being in night clothes I am unable to ascertain what type was removed.
Just 15 minutes later we once again proceed on our way to Kampala which lies 150 miles due west of our position. The train continues through the night with a brief stop in Budumba and Iganga until at just on 6 am it arrives in Jinja an important commercial town at the start of the Nile River. As I awake I notice that the scenery has changed from farmland to one of banana plantations and sugar fields. Once again the chimes can be heard calling passengers to breakfast. What a meal it was, almost like something out of a Victorian Grand mansion, it would have done justice to a hotel let alone a train.
Shortly after leaving the station the train crosses the Nile river and continues its route along the northern shore of Lake Victoria which remains tantalisingly close but out of sight. The view remains unchanged, for the next one and half hours, with regards to the vegetation which has taken on a very sub-tropical look. At 7.20 am the train pulls to stop in our final en route stop at Kawolo just on 25 miles away from journeys end.
The last section of the journey takes one and half hours and leaves the lush green trees, etc., behind as it enters the outskirts of the capital city of the Republic of Uganda and the Kingdom of Buganda, Kampala. Almost on time the trains stops in the passenger station at 9.10 am. The class 60 locomotive now removes itself down to the nearby shed.
A journey of just under 24 hours that was filled with interesting views from beginning to end, is one I shall never forget. Alas, I understand that this route is no longer open to through traffic for passengers.

[John Ashworth]

Brilliant. A very evocative piece, talking about locations which I know well, although sadly I've never had the opportunity to travel that route by train. Last time I drove from Nairobi to Kampala (about seven years ago, I believe) it took me 13 hours. I've posted odd pictures of the two end-ponts, Nairobi and Kampala, as well as Timboroa summit, in the photo gallery section of this forum.